I had something else I had to do before I left Chang Mai. During the worst of the Great Plague of COVID-19, I developed a fascination with Sak Yant tattoos. Sak Yant is an obscure Buddhist tradition of tattooing prayers and animal representations, which are then activated by prayers and incantations. These are done by a monk, or an Ajan, a former monk who still conducts religious rituals. Sak Yant are believed to offer protection and assistance in certain aspects of the receiver’s life. Sak Yant became well known in the West when Angelina Jolie first got one on her delectable back.
I was also previously intrigued by the idea of tattoos for protection in Western culture, such as sailors getting compass tattoos, also tattoos for milestones, such as crossing the Tropic of Capricorn for the first time. In addition, much of the science fiction and fantasy media I enjoy features tattoos for protection and to celebrate milestones.
I wanted an authentic experience, not just a tattoo shop fake, which are all too common, however it’s not something that is easy to navigate as a Westerner, so I opted to book an appointment with Sak Yant Chang Mai, a co-opt of monks, Ajans, and layperson staff who assist and facilitate the process.
A charming lady by the name of Ploy was to be my guide, and after selecting my design, doing some paperwork and making the remaining payment, Ploy tentatively drove us through the afternoon traffic to a temple on the outskirts of Chang Mai- a temple very much untouched by Western ideas or influences. I was lead to the top of a building where I met the monk who would perform the tattoo and activation. Aum has been doing Sak Yants for over fifteen years.
After bowing, we conducted a three-way conversation (Aum spoke not a single word of English), about the design I wanted, and specific issues I would like addressed by the Sak Yant. After this discussion, Aum told me that he would include extra emphasis on communication, as I had stated that’s something I struggle with. After getting my inner forearm shaved, a stencil of guidelines was placed on my skin and we got down to business.
Aum wielded a long and slender tool, tipped with a hollow (and single use, I got to keep it), which he dipped into a pot of ink to load, and then free handed the script onto my delicate skin. I was impressed with the speed, accuracy and lack of hesitation as he tapped away.
The pain was spicier than my other tattoo, that was done with a modern machine, where the needle goes in and out of the skin before you feel it. As it was explained to me, you should not attempt to distract yourself from the pain by reading or listening to music. It seemed the monk’s two offsiders didn’t seem to be aware of this, talking in Thai and laughing, which was a little distracting and annoying, seeing this was supposed to be taken as seriously as Holy Communion in a Catholic church.
When the tattoo was finished, Aum laid his tool to rest, and placed a square of gold leaf onto the centre of the tattoo and it was time for the activation.
Without the activation, the tattoo would not be considered a proper Sak Yant. While Aum was praying, I was making my own, private chant, similar to the prayers that I would make when I still believed in a Christian God. It was not something that I had planned to do, but seemed appropriate at the time.
After this, I was asked if I had any questions, and I just thanked him for allowing me to be part of this tradition. Aum responded, thanking me for showing respect. While one of the temple helpers pulled our car around I got a quick tour of the temple. Also on the way out we stopped for photos at another temple, which featured a school for children which was entirely funded by donations.
When we returned to the office in the city, I was treated with some excellent tea and cookies, and some further instruction on healing and rules I had to abide by for my tattoo.
Rules for having a Sak Yant:
- Do not kill
- Do not steal
- Do not lie
- Do not be unfaithful to your spouse
- Do not get intoxicated
- Do not speak ill of any mother
Nothing left to do but get a photo with Ploy, and depart. The experience was awesome and if I ever find myself in Thailand again I will consider getting another one!
My design: copy and pasted from Sak Yant Chang Mai:
Hah Taew Sak Yant Blessings
1. i ra cha ka ta ra sa
2. ti hang ja toh loh ti nang
3. soh ma na ga ri tah toh
4. pi sam lah loh pu sa pu
5. ka pu bam too tahm wa ka
Hah Taew, represents 5 yants or magical spells. Each one will be done individually and the following magical spells have been cast to do as described below.
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- The first row prevents unjust punishment and leans in your favor when the area is grey, cleans out unwanted spirits and protects the place you live in.
- The second row reverses and protects against bad horoscope constellations and bad fortune.
- The third row protects you from the use of black magic and anyone who tries to put a curse on you.
- The fourth row energizes your good luck, success and fortune in your future ambitions and life style.
- The fifth row is to gain charisma and attraction to the opposite sex. It is also is a boost to the fourth row.
If you liked this post, please check out the rest of the posts from this trip here!
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